Well, I thought I was finished with the Crepe muslins, but I am not. Something weird is happening in the armpit and shoulder area on this Crepe Muslin III. The dress is binding in my armpit. It is tight when I move my arms forward or up. Also, there are drag lines. And in the shoulder, well the shoulder seam seems to be standing up off of my shoulder a bit. Behold the fit in Muslin III:
See all those drag lines pulling right to the back armpit? Yikes! Other than that, the back looks pretty good, especially with the new darts. I am a bit bummed that the inside wrap folded in on itself for these photos, but whatever.
You can see some fabric gathering above my back armpit there. It binds a lot, and thanks to the pulling sensation I can tell it is not big enough. Also, there are some slight drag lines across my back, perhaps indicating I have pulled the wrap a bit too tight? But I don't think they are major. Hey, I can't expect this to fit without any wrinkles like a knit, right?! Is that a reasonable attitude?
Here's the front, with two different dart lengths. The longer dart definitely goes all the way to my apex (as opposed to ending short of the breast), but it also seems to have less wrinkling on that side. Perhaps on muslin IV (sigh, I have to make a fourth...) I will sew with short, rounded darts and press really well. Instinct tells me shorter is better.
From these side views you can really see how the armpit is too small. The think part of this is because I shortened the bodice from by an inch with a straight across upper chest tuck, which pulled the armpit of the armhole up. But the binding seems most intense at the back of the arm. I am going to try deepening this lower armpit on front and back to correct this (without unleashing the underarm pouch!).