Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Crepe Sewalong: Muslin III

Well, I thought I was finished with the Crepe muslins, but I am not. Something weird is happening in the armpit and shoulder area on this Crepe Muslin III. The dress is binding in my armpit. It is tight when I move my arms forward or up. Also, there are drag lines. And in the shoulder, well the shoulder seam seems to be standing up off of my shoulder a bit. Behold the fit in Muslin III:

See all those drag lines pulling right to the back armpit? Yikes! Other than that, the back looks pretty good, especially with the new darts. I am a bit bummed that the inside wrap folded in on itself for these photos, but
whatever.

You can see some fabric gathering above my back armpit there. It binds a lot, and thanks to the pulling sensation I can tell it is not big enough. Also, there are some slight drag lines across my back, perhaps indicating I have pulled the wrap a bit too tight? But I don't think they are major. Hey, I can't expect this to fit without any wrinkles like a knit, right?! Is that a reasonable attitude?

Here's the front, with two
different dart lengths. The longer dart definitely goes all the way to my apex (as opposed to ending short of the breast), but it also seems to have less wrinkling on that side. Perhaps on muslin IV (sigh, I have to make a fourth...) I will sew with short, rounded darts and press really well. Instinct tells me shorter is better.

From these side views you can really see how the armpit is too small. The think part of this is because I shortened the bodice from by an inch with a straight across upper chest tuck, which pulled the armpit of the armhole up. But the binding seems most intense at the back of the arm. I am going to try deepening this lower armpit on front and back to correct this (without unleashing the underarm pouch!).

8 comments:

angie.a said...

This journey has been really helpful to watch, so thank you! If it were me, I think I'd shorten both darts (the bust dart on the side and the waist dart). They aren't leaving room for anything other than a little pooch right there at the apex when the waist dart is shortened. It's smoother when the waist dart is longer because it's essentially creating a little rounded "box". I could be totally and completely wrong though. I often am. :)

For the armhole, yup I agree. When you shortened and removed sleeve depth you made it too small. Just remove at the bottom and it should be fine. The back looks great now!

Oh...and I think the shoulder pooch is just a combination of the sleeve type and the too-tight armhole. D on't worry about that until you fix the armhole (just cut that out of this muslin and check. No sewing required. ;)

Kate said...

So helpful, thanks Angie for the meaningful feedback. I am going to play with the armhole some tonight and see what happens.

I think you are correct about the dart length too. I sense another (better!) muslin IV in my near future. :)

Mom said...

You should not sew the darts till the apex, but till a point a little back, kind of 5/18"...
Leave a little of ease everywhere. The cloth is too close your body.
Sorry for my bad english.

Mom said...

I thought I was the only one who could sign your blog from Mom.

Kate said...

I thought you were too. Imagine how confused I was when someone named "Mom" apologized for their English. :) Love you momma!

Karen in VA said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Karen in VA said...

Kate - Is this dress driving you as crazy as it's driving me? I wrote a blog post a few minutes ago on my latest Crepe muslin. I'd love it if you could take a look at my latest effort...

Karen in VA said...

Kate - Thanks sooo much for your advice. Will be trying that this week. Once I get this fitted correctly, I'll be making at least one more...It will be so pretty once spring gets here..