Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Sencha Blouse: Muslin #1 tweaks

Since I last photographed my progress on the Sencha Blouse Muslin #1, I added the neck facings with a 1.5 inch seem, which pleasantly opened up the neckline a bit. This was an improvement. I also tucked down the sleeve self-facings, and was remarkably impressed by the drafting of the pattern. Everything folded into a beautiful little cap sleeves, and it was so easy!

However, the bodice felt long in the back (You can see a photo of the Muslin #1 back, front and sides here, with a highlight of the puddling along the lower shoulder blade area). It was like I needed a mid-back "swayback" adjustment, or perhaps to shorten the bodice length all together.

Also, the front just felt too big (see photo here). This was in part because the front tucks needed deepened and moved. It was also because there continued to be excess fabric up above my bust, in my upper bust "hollow". I had already taken one substantial tuck out of this area to remove excess fabric, in what I call my "sway chest" adjustment, but perhaps it needs more?

So I redrafted the front tucks, making them MUCH deeper (each one is about 2 inches deep now) and moving them closer to center front. I also adjusted their angle and shape. The original tucks were deeper at the waist and then narrowed to add room for the hips. I am thick the whole way down, so my tucks are nearly even columns now. I also took the whole bit up at the shoulders by about 3/4 an inch in the front and back.

The front with re-drafted tucks and shoulders taken up. Now it is a bit too tight.
Also, it's pulling to the right, enhancing an unfortunate lopsided effect. Doh.

The back with the shoulders take up. The take up seemed to correct the excess material in the back, however a high swayback adjustment would probably achieve the same results without constricting the armholes.

Unfortunately, the whole blouse is now a wee bit tight, both across the chest and under the arms. You can see the strain across bust, especially where the front is torching toward my slightly bustier side (gah! asymmetry!). So I need to do one of a few things. Either 1) let the shoulders back out, and consider taking a tuck above the bust and in the mid back to correct the excess, or 2) leave the shoulders as is, but lower the armhole by 3/4 inch and lower the bust darts too, as needed. I think I might start by letting the shoulder back out. Even with the shoulder back down, the tucks still may need shifted down to give some breathing and blousing room to the bust.

Here is a big question though. I am starting to doubt my choice to eliminate the side dart created in the full bust adjustment (if you remember, I moved the dart into the waist tucks). Perhaps I would have been better served to leave at least some side dart, for better bust fit. Then again, it will be an ordeal to start from scratch. Decisions, decisions, decisions.

I do remain pleased that the side seems appear to be falling as they should.
So often I see a curve in the seem line in the shape of a sideways "m" where the seems is pulling first across my bust, then straightening, then pulling forward again around my midsection. This seem seems to fall almost perfectly down.


Nicknamed...Annie said...

Kate, every single time I see you pose in front of the closet, in my head I think...

"She really needs a blog post where all the sweet crafting supplies in that closet are showcased as they tumble down in a fab-tastic avalanche."

The blouse is looking so much better. Don't give up!

Kate said...

Haha, a FAB-tastic avalanche. I love it! I am near death every time I open that closet. Today, to get out Christmas decorations, I had to arrange and rearrange three boxes of cigar boxes (boxes in a box, ironic, eh?), plus tubs of glue, paper, and wrapping supplies. It left me exhausted. Oh, the perils of my project ADHD!

Karen in VA said...

Wow, not only are we built similiarly, we seem to like the same patterns... I have the Sencha also that I plan to try next year. Like you, once I get the fitting worked out, I want to make a few - that style will work well in my work wardrobe..