Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Butterick 9765: The progression of fit.

Butterick 9765
Misses & Women's Shallow Necked Dress
Size 44 * Bust 46

Description: Dress with softly tucked shoulders, shallow neck, set in short sleeves, front pleated flared skirt, self belt. Suggested
Fabrics: Silky Cottons, Soft Crepes, Pongees, Jersey, Silk Surahs, Silk Shantungs.

The "shallow neck" is what I would describe as a boat neck. It is long and wide and follows the collar bone. The softly tucked shoulders have what I would describe as a pleat on each shoulder, creating a nice gather of fabric that expands to cover the bust. The front pleated flared skirt is in other words sort of a full A-Line, with of course pleats at the waist to create fullness. And I do not know what they mean about a self belt, because there are no belt pattern pieces OR instructions in the pamphlet.

I am drawn to the pattern for two reasons, first because it is one of the few and rare dress patterns I have ever found in my size. I would purchase and sew almost any decent pattern in a 46 or 48 bust (so long as it is not a tent dress or something from the 70's), simply because I am semi-complacent due to limited options. Secondly, my guess is that the "soft tucks" at the shoulders are a good way to accommodate a large bust with minimal skill, and I have both of those things! This might be the perfect dress for me.

I conducted my first full bust adjustment on this garment, to semi successful results. I am feeling mighty empowered, and motivated to move on with further pattern alterations to reach a perfect fit. In addition to a full bust, I also have a very wide waist, so I am making tweaks here and there to accommodate my rotund figure. Diagrams to come as the fitting progresses.

For now, just enjoy the lovely pattern photo and imagine me in a blue polka-dot dress, with a bodice and skirt in perfect proportion to my figure.


Anonymous said...

That's a truly gorgeous pattern I am quite envious - I can never find vintage in my size!

Make it, it will look AWESOME!

Myra said...

Great pattern and such luck to find your size. Challenge for me, too. Personally, I would not overfit the bodice in front, the detail is to drape and have ease. As for the belt, the pictures show 2 with "covered self-made belts", like from a kit that used to be sold years ago. You can buy special interfacing strips by the yd for belting (JoAnn's in SA have it, I have bought it there), then buy a buckle that can be covered or use one that is decorative (gold, silver,etc.) (easier) or use a purchased RTW belt as given in the descriptions.

Anonymous said...

Very cute pattern. I am a RTW 16 and when I see vintage patterns in my size I grab them! I can't tell from this pattern, but I have found adding darts, instead of gathers to the bodice waist is flattering too.

Anonymous said...

I just realized that we have the same thumbnail pic on our blogs! cindy

Kate said...

I noticed our same photo the other day too and smiled. It is super cute on your blog! As you may have read, my poor Singer is on the edge of biting the dust, but I think I will keep the image up to remind me of my humble sewing beginnings, even if I do move on to a newer machine. Thanks for your notes!