Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Negroni: Looking at another shirt's fit.

Do you know that White Stripe's song "The Hardest Button to Button"? Well, the lyrics suited Sam when we were taking these pictures. That darn top button is the hardest button to button, which is why Sam hardly ever buttons it! Thank goodness he doesn't wear many ties.

Our Negroni tissue fit was a bit confusing, so I put him in one of his button downs to look for fit issues, theorizing that the fabric version might help me identify major issues. The good news is that upon close inspection, his ready to wear is actually kind of ill fitting, but I still think he looks damn good. So even if his Negroni is a wee bit off here and there, it should be of the same fit quality as off the rack.

This is a Banana Republic "fitted"button up, size XL (17-17 1/2). It's a nice quality shirt and what we would consider a good fit for off the rack. Immediate issues I notice:

- Pulling from the top button to his shoulders along the upper chest. What causes this?
- A bit more bunching and excess in the armscye than I would think would be ideal, but certainly not the worst in the world.
- There's a crease in the sleeve that starts near his shoulder and creases dramatically in to the elbow area. Surely this indicates something is off, maybe where the sleeve cap is seated? Beats me.
- The sleeves are a bit short. He usually rolls them up to compensate for this. Good thing I know how to add length to a pattern, easy-peasy!

- Pulling from under his arm and mid-side toward his pecks/mid-chest. This could be because he is fuller in the chest area than the shirt is cut for, or could it be the armhole is not right?
- That crease in the arm rolling from shoulder to elbow front is really prominent. What could be the cause?

- There is some puddling of fabric in his lower back. If this was a woman's top, I would call for a sway back adjustment. Except Sam has the flattest man-butt ever, so it couldn't be a sway back, could it? Maybe I shouldn't worry about this, as men's shirt traditionally don't lie as flat and fitted as women's shirts.
- The tuck in the back shoulders coming from the yoke is creasing in toward the armpit. Is that normal? Is there an alteration for a smoother fit?

- The side seem hangs nice and straight. I think he has enough room around the stomach.

So, any other obvious figure nuances that you see that I can apply to the Negroni pattern? Do you have alteration suggestions? Please advise.

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