Monday, June 16, 2008

The Siren Sundress: Bodice issues

I am working on a new Decades of Style pattern, the Siren Sun Dress. I was immediately attracted to the pattern because of its unique back wrap-style, the criss-crossed ties on the back, and the full skirt. And of course because it is from 1948. I worked tirelessly on the dress this weekend, sewing a seam here and there when I had a moment, and have come to a point where I can put the garment on my body and almost simulate the final product. However, the final product is not as perfect as I envisioned. See the image above.

Hmmmmmm. The wrap top is a little bit lumpy, and while the the dress in concept is pretty neat, the bodice is not perfect. In fact, it's pretty far from it. On a positive note, I don't think it is beyond correcting, but the lumpy top is definitely enough of a problem that it cannot be ignored.

The problem, part I: I have too much fabric on the cross-over front pieces, so the fabric won't lie flat against my curves. Rather, it pouches out away from my body. You can see it in both images, above and below.

The problem, part II: the single side dart was not deep enough to create a "pocket" of fabric for each breast, so instead the fabric is more like a flat panel that shoots off of the curve of my chest into the great space in front of me, creating a gaping plane of jungle-themed fabric. In addition to being slightly obscene, it also robs the dress of any form fitting qualities and makes me look like a leafy blob. Not quite the "siren" I was aiming for.

The solution: (see my left shoulder, shoulder on the right of the photo)After experimenting with adding gathers, darts, pleats, and seams to the too-much-fabric gaping area, I tried tying the excess into a ribbon at the shoulder. It opens up more skin and creates a semi-sweetheart style neckline, which is good. It also is a solution in line with my experience level. I am afraid to sew any more darts in the finished garment for fear I will worsen the gappage and create a more ill fitting challenge. But a ribbon, hey, I can tie a green ribbon. Stay tuned for additional photos of the finished dress.


Anonymous said...

What about posting this as a question in one of the PR forums? They have a section specifically for beginners. Perhaps an expert sewist can suggest a solution.

Anonymous said...

This makes me think of the little bird saying to Ted and Fred, "Why make big problems out of little problems?" You have found a great and easy solution to a potentially difficult problem. Good thinking!!

ohmypuddin said...

Genius! And I love the sweetheart neckline you created with the ties. Pretty.