Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Crepe Sewalong: Tissue Fit I

The Crepe Dress is progressing nicely. I have completed the first dreadful part, tracing and marking the pattern. Things always get better after this first step. Next, the tissue fit. You can see my progress here.

I am pretty impressed with the fit in the front. That dart is too high, but I am going to wait until after my Full Bust Adjustment to worry about it, as the FBA drops the dart position. I know I will need to bring that waist dart down a bit too, it is nearly overlapping my apex. However, I noticed I have other shirts in my closet with a high side bust dart, and part of me wonders if the drafting purposefully placed the darts this high, to somehow wrangle in the fabric and fit in the armpit/cap sleeve area. I hope watching other people's fitting and alterations in the Flickr group will help me figure this out.

As you can see, the center front does not totally reach my center front, but it is not abysmally far off ether. I am doing a small 1" Full Bust Adjustment, which is refreshing for me. I usually have to do more than 2 inches, sometimes up to four inches. This smaller bust adjustment means less weird contortions to the rest of the pattern, which should simplify fit later. Keep your fingers crossed on my behalf.

Thankfully, the center front looks pretty even all the way along my center front, which means I may not have too much of a wide waist issue to tweak. Again, I'll see after the full bust adjustment. The shoulder seems fine, the neckline width looks pretty good. I hesitate to be so optimistic, but this might be an easy fit!

Even the side seam is in the right position! It's not torquing too much toward the center front at the waist. Again, great sign.

The back looks pretty good. No high round back, since the deep V in the back wrap avoids my upper back. The only off putting thing is that the back dart is way over in my armpit. I am not sure that is the correct position. I may need to move it under my shoulder blade, or eliminate it all together to add a bit more length across the waist. The tissue is also gaping a bit in the shoulder blade area. I might just tuck that out of the pattern like one would for a sway back adjustment.

Next up, the fabric muslin fit. Onward and forward we go!

1 comment:

Myra said...

That's not bad for a first fit, Kate. Also having a hard fit, I have found it best to find a few patterns that fit well and use other patterns to superimpose details. If you get this one to work, keep going back to it for your base, like Carolyn does. Everytime I venture into another bodice, it rarely works and I get discouraged and abandon it. Looking at it, it appears to have good back fit other than the dart placement.