Lady Grey Phase II: Pre-muslin tissue fit.

Oh lawrdy, how in the world does anyone fit themselves by themselves? It ties me up like a pretzel, and I am certain that my contortions limit an accurate fitting. But struggles aside, I am moving into the pattern adjustment phase of my Lady Grey. I know, I know, I'll admit it... I am woefully behind on my Lady Grey progress. But I am chuggin' along slowly but surely just the same, and I haven't lost any motivation.

So here is the tissue pattern pinned and on my bod for a basic tissue fitting. Looking at the fit, I can tell I needed some basic width across the back to bring the center seam to my center back. The side seam also looked too far back, letting me know I need more at the waist. However I did feel the arm opening was big enough. Or course the front was vastly small, but fitting the front comes after fitting the back.

I started from a point of mild confusing about adding width at the waist without adding too much extra width at the hip. I have what can kindly be called a protruding tummy. That tummy of mine is round, almost like a pregnant figure. Granted, I am not prego, and under normal circumstances, I am fairly embarrassed about my shape. But hey, in the name of both healthy body image and accurate pattern adjustments, I need to admit my shape and work with it. Considering my round belly, I considered doing and adjust like one might do for a maternity alteration. I saw an actual pregnant blogger do a wide waist adjustment on one of her Colette Patterns to accommodate her belly, you can see it here. It's basically a slash up the grain line near the side seam, rotated out to give more width around the belly (and the extra length added).

This inspired me to add width to my own pattern on both the side front and the side back pieces. However, I want to minimize additional width at the hips, since I have narrow hips. So this is what I did. I did a slash and spread to add 1" at the waist, then cut and opened a tiny dart at the waistline so I could bring the bottom of the pattern back down to its original hemline. This mini-dart basically eliminated the "dip" that contours the waistline in the pattern, and I added width where I need it without affecting the armhole or hemline. I have no idea if this is a legit alternation, but it made sense to me. I hope it works out in the fabric fitting.

Below is my second tissue fitting, brought to you after a good three hours of adjustments and taping and pinning. Oh my, but this is a time consuming process! What do you think?

Here are the adjustments you see in pink.

On the back:

• 1/2 inch high round back adjustment, standard for me.
• 1/2 inch in a broad back adjustment, trying to bring the center back to my center back.
• 1 inch to the side back piece at the waist, ultimately eliminating the curve at the waist while retaining the same line and proportion at the hem.

On the front:

• 1 1/2 inch Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
• 1 1/2 inch center front full bust adjustment, by slashing and spreading the piece open to add width across the bust and to the waist
• 1 inch wide waist adjustment, using the same method as used for the back

I WISH WISH WISH I had followed my instinct and done a full three inch FBA at once, because in the second tissue fit the princess seam is still about an inch and a half outside of my apex. I plan to retrace the altered front patterns with their current changes to start afresh and conduct a second 1 1/2 inch FBA. Hopefully this will add the remaining width I need to get the wrap front across my wide waist. I also have a hunch I will be taking a tuck or two out of the lapels (as many have found a need for) both below and above the bust, to prevent gaping. I also speculate I will need a swayback to pull the hemline even over my flat derriere.

Current concerns are that the back is still not big enough, but I plan to wait until the fabric muslin to decide whether to add more room. I am also only cautiously optimistic that the second bust adjustments will do what it needs to do and move the seam to my apex. The 1 1/2 inches today worked wonders, so I have hope, but then again, this bust of mine has a history of giving me fits.

With that said, I am very optimistic. Stay tuned. I won't be sewing this weekend because I will be at the Austin City Limits Music Festival, but I plan to crank through these changes next week and move on to the fabric fitting. Wheeeee!

Surprise!

Saturday I received a big surprise in the form of an intimate birthday party, orchestrated by my darling husband and enacted by a group of my closest friends. I was completely surprised, and it was so fun!

Thursday was my real birthday. But Friday was the start of an eight-day work marathon that requires waking up at 5:30 a.m. daily and working through the weekends, so my birthday celebration was minimal. We went out for a nice dinner, but I didn't even have time to bake a proper birthday cake. It was less hurrah than a usual birthday, and while I was not broken up about the mellow day, I was a little bit underwhelmed.

Well... Saturday after I got off work Sam explained he had made plans for us to go out for drinks with our friends Will and Carmen downtown. The weather was beautiful and we were going to drink beers outside, after a cocktail at Liberty Bar. I dressed up and headed out. When we arrived at the Liberty Bar we headed up stairs, and as we hit the top floor the Sam grabbed my hand and firmly pulled me toward the back room, known as "The Porch."

Inside was a long table covered in balloons and seated with Jules, Roger, Casey, Jarrett, Ted, Anne, Will and Carmen, with two seats for me and Sam! Everyone said "Surprise!" and I was completely shocked and delighted and overwhelmed and so, so flattered!

And we had cake, and cocktails, and goat cheese with chili morita, and then we ate dinner. And everyone sang me happy birthday. And I received a few presents. And it was very very special. What a nice husband and nice friends I have to do such a thing for me. I am a very lucky girl.

That's my birthday cake! It's called "Virginia Green's Chocolate Cake" and those of us that ate full slices (as opposed to sharing with significant others) definitely made ourselve a bit ill with sweets. It was great.

And this is my beau Sam, who planned the whole surprise. He was very proud of himself and I felt so special thanks to his efforts. Happy birthday to me.

Lady Grey: The fabric is in.

Oh yeah! Saturday the postman delivered a hand-addressed envelope from Elfriede's Fine Fabrics in Boulder, Colorado. My fabric samples are here! Of course, now I am in conniptions over which fabric to choose. I hardly slept a wink last night (it is unclear, however, whether it is the fabric decision or a stressful work week that cause my disturbed snooze).

The samples arrived courtesy of Elfriede's Fine Fabrics, and the one and only Elfriede herself chose them after an email and a phone call. I had described to her that I was interested in a cotton chino/twill/trench-coat like fabric, and she explained that we are moving into the woolen season, so my timing was off for a spring jacket cotton. She said however that she would send some samples of what she recommends given my stipulations - I live in a hot climate, I am a beginning sewer, this is my first jacket, and I am attracted to the color blue. In response, she sent me fourteen samples. I am delighted. Her fabric is fine indeed.

In case you ever have the opportunity, I want you to be able to visit her store yourself, so here is the contact information:
Elfriede's Fine Fabrics
2425 Canyon Blvd.
Boulder, CO 80302
(303) 447-0132
www.elfriedesfinefabrics.com/

Elfriede is the absolutely charming owner. If you head over to the website you can see a photo of Elfriede herself. She is German, and therefore has an impressive accent that adds to her personality. I can tell you from personal experience that she also has impeccable taste. Her fabrics are as beautiful as any fabric I can imagine. She is totally independent and I think she does all of her own buying. And the nice thing is that her shop is large enough to have everything you need, but still small enough that she knows every inch of her inventory and you can shop it without being overwhelmed. Plus, she excels at personal service.

She mailed me fourteen samples, ranging from stretch cotton to silk twill to wool gabardine (to be fair, I am making my best guess at the fabric types, I am not entirely sure they are twills and gabardines). You can see my favorite fabric choice up above, with details below. I am looking for feedback and opinions.

#1 is an off-white textured floral texture made of 89% cotton, 11% rayon and 60" wide. It is on sale for $24/yard (on sale from $48/yard) and made by an Italian designer. This is one of Elfriede's favorite choices. I like the fabric too, but I am concerned about the off-white color. Will it get dirty? Is it versatile?

#7 is a navy blue stretch cotton (chino or gabardine I think) made of 97% cotton, 3% spandex and 54" wide. It only costs $12/yard, which is a plus. This fabric matches my initial vision for a trench-like jacket, plus it's stretch. These are good things. But I do wonder if the blue fade quickly and looks dull, or if the dark color will attract lint and dust?

#8 is a dusty blue 100% cotton, similar in texture to the stretch cotton but without any stretch. It is a full 60" wide and only $12/yard, which makes it economical. This fabric has an already distressed look for a casual, year-round jacket, and it may be most appropriate to line with a printed cotton (I really dislike sewing silky fabric). But, is it a waste to sew such a classy, versatile jacket in such a casual fabric?

#9 is a violet-ish blue and golden brown "tweed" (not entirely sure this is technically a tweed, I am making my best guess) made of 100% silk. It is 54" wide and costs $28/yard, making it very pricey. It is Sam's favorite, and perhaps the most dressy fabric choice. Because of these two factors I am more and more drawn to it. The semi-nubby texture makes it interesting, and the multiple colors of beige, brown, and gold add dimension. I am leaning heavily on purchasing this for my coat. And it seems grown-up enough to demand a pair of gloves and a pretty handbag. But I do wonder... will it look too old or formal all sewn up in 5.5 yards? Also, will i have any challenges with a slightly looser weave? It is a silk, and is silk delicate... for example will it wear quickly where I carry my purse on my shoulder, or will it snag? I do not want to put forth the expense and effort if the jacket does not have a long shelf life. Oh, but it is pretty, and seems so fancy!

#14 is an almost Robin's Egg blue thin, tightly woven wool made of 100% wool and 60" wide. It too costs $28/yard. Advantages are that it is a pretty and bright color, it has a nice drape because it is a thin fabric, and it looks easy to sew. I am still wondering though, will the wool be too hot? Will the coat be versatile enough in my South Texas climate?

Oh, this is so hard. The combination of choices, expense, and fear of ruining lovely fabric is paralyzing me. I plan to call Elfriede tomorrow and ask a few more questions about my top choices, mainly if there are structural concerns for the jacket (looser weave vs. less drapey fabric), how to care for each fabric, plus I want to know about lining options. I hope she will send me some lining samples for two to three narrowed choices.

Please, Please PLEASE send me your feedback I really value some experienced sewers opinions, and also the opinions of those that know me, my style, and my lifestyle too. What do you think will work best for my Lady Grey?

Lady Grey Phase I: The procrastination phrase.

Whew. I am waist deep in phase one of my coat sew-along. It is the phase I like to call the procrastination phase. This phase is marked by the intense business of putting off fitting the pattern and sewing the muslin.

A brief example of the business involved in the procrastination phase: I examined the entire sew-along Flickr photo pool for inspiration...twice. Then I reviewed the blogs of any sew-along sewers with full busts, for research purposes. This of course led to a mandatory exploration of their entire blogs. I went ahead and browsed full blog archives, writing down all of the fabulous patterns they created for blouses and skirts and dresses, daydreaming and planning about sewing them too. I spent two days making my sewing notions shopping list. I needed needles, tracing paper, and a french curve ruler. It was a big list, yes? No wonder it took two days to write. I went to JoAnn Fabrics (did I mention I hate that place? I do. Passionately). They had needles and some sub par tracing paper. No French Curve, of course. Did I mention I spent 45 minutes in the needle aisle reading each package? I left with four different types of needs (stretch, lightweight woven, a twin needle, and a multi-pack, just in case), even though I have no current plans for the stretch or twin needles. And then to round out the procrastination phase, I just read the whole fit section of Jackets for Real People, again. plus a book on fabric cover to cover.

I have achieved things, yes. But have I made a lick of progress on my coat? No. That's what the procrastination phase is all about after all. In fact, if the procrastination phase were a legitimate part of sewing a beautiful jacket, I would be a champ and folks would probably be reading MY blog for tips and pointers. Unfortunately, its not. So today the phase ends. I am committed to moving into Phase 1.5: actually fitting and sewing the muslin.

So, if you will please excuse me, I need to cut out the pattern, trace the pattern, tissue fit the pattern, and make some basic adjustments right now. That is my task for today. See you soon, hopefully with something meaningful to show for my efforts.

Lady Grey Wrap Coat Sew-along

I am jumping into fall though with a renewed sewing vigor. To jump start my efforts, I am going to participant in my first online sew-along. Are you familiar with the concept? Basically, it is sort of a virtual sewing circle, where people all over the world work on the same pattern, on a similar time line, and use their blogs and social media to stay in touch, offer advice, and offer fit critique. A wonderful seamstress and vintage aficionado Gertie is spearheading this particular sew-along. You can read more about it on her blog here.

The pattern is from a Portland designer - Colette patterns - and it is the Lady Grey wrap coat. I have such a crush on this entire pattern line. First off, it is designed for curvy gals, and many busty women report they don't need to do their standard full bust adjustments to achieve a fitting garment. I might still need to do the FBA, but somehow I just KNOW this is a pattern line that will work for me.

Check out the design below and let me know what inspirations immediately come to mind. I am thinking of sewing this up as a lighter weight fa/spring coat, since I live in South Texas where it is always hot. Also, because i have never sewn with fancy wools and thick materials, and I think a firm woven will do the trick.

The wrap closure, the flared peplum, the exaggerated collar, the princess seams, and the sew-along buzz have me so excited! Read below for my personal to-do list, as well as a short summary of some wonderful women who have already created the coat.

Kate's Sew-along to-do list:

1. Receive and trace pattern:
It's ordered and shipped, and should arrive this week. I just KNOW it will still need some minor alterations, so at the very least I will trace out the front and back bodice pieces. Tracing patterns is a tedious chore and I hate it, but better spend an hour tracing than have to purchase a new pattern later.

2. Select and order fabric:
This is the hardest part right now. I just don't know where to find my material. I tend to dislike shopping at JoAnn's, our major fabric store in town, because I feel like their fabric is either very crafty or synthetic. So I may try to order fabric online. I really think I want to sew this in a firm cotton woven, something with a canvas-y or trench coat-like. The internet tells me I should be looking for a gabardine, cotton drill, poplin or a heavy twill. Sheesh, I need a book on fabrics. I have no idea what these are.

3. Pick up tailoring books from the San Antonio Public Library:
Gertie recommends Tailoring: the Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket by the editors of Creative Publishing, but my library does not carry it. So I have requested Jackets for Real People: Tailoring Made Easy! by Marta Alto, Susan Neall, and Pati Palmer, Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear by Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers, and of course the basic bible of sewing New Complete Guide to Sewing : Step-by-Step Techniques for Making Clothes and Home Accessories from the editors at Reader's digest. Hopefully, armed with these three guides I can make it through the coat sew-along.

4. Get started:
I promise to keep you posted.

In the meantime, check out the beautiful Lady Grey coats already roaming the streets from these talented sewers. There fabric choice, styling, and descriptions have me super-motivated.

• The Cupcake Goddess
• Pink Chalk Studio
• Boo Dogg and Me
• Sewaholic
• Lil' Miss Muffet

Mrs. White has a cording foot.

Mrs. White, my fine old lady sewing machine, has a cording foot! And thank goodness she does, because together we spent the last week of August making 100 yards of fabric flags for Sarah T's wedding!

A week ago yesterday we headed to Vermont for my dear friend Sarah's wedding. My two carry on bags were full to the brim with 160 laundered, pressed, and tied Vera Neumann napkins, 7 Vera tablecloths, and a football field's length of fabric flags. I was laden with linens and nervous about everything looking right, and I am pleased to report that the wedding was beautiful. The flags made it up into the trees next to twinkling white lights, and the linens dotted every table setting at the dinner. I will post some photos when I get the good stuff that the professionals shot. Just know that it did look lovely.

But, I could NOT have done it without this magical little foot, which offered a deep groove for the cording to run under as the needle zig-zagged above it. I don't know what this presser foot is technically called, or what it is actually designed for (as I am pretty sure it was not created with the expressed purpose of sewing wedding flags). But I do know this, I am a lucky girl that I found it in my stash of sewing supplies about two and a half weeks ago. Now, I can leave you with this advice. When committing to sewing wedding decorations, it is wise not to spend 9 months amassing materials and speculating on construction, and only one week completing the construction. But, it you do procrastinate, it is also wise to have an eBay-ed sewing machine on hand with surprise presser feet to help you complete the job.

Hazing the newest diners.

Will and Carmen are the newest members of our Top Chef Dinner Club. No, we are not Top Chefs. In fact, we are not chefs at all, but rather enthusiastic home cooks. Yes, we do watch the TV show Top Chef together, religiously, and always accompanied by a Dinner meal. And we do it on a regular basis with exclusive membership, hence the Club. Thus, Top Chef Dinner Club.

For a long time we were a group of six dedicated members, but now we are a group of eight thanks to Will and Carmen. They just moved back to San Antonio after a three year stint in L.A. - a time in which our local Dinner Club grew and flourished into the fine-dining, many-bottle-of-wine, every-other-week, flanked-by-viewing-Top-Chef extravaganza that it is today.

These friends are fine people, well traveled and versed in the ways of fine dining. They have even eaten at The French Laundry, which is something the rest of us Dinner Club members have never done. But fancy dining pedigree or none, not just any foodie joins our coveted club. Not without a challenge at least. A "quick fire" challenge if you will. So a few weeks ago at John and Lauren's house, we set up a "pantry" full of odd ingredients, including a cucumber, an unknown white squash, nuts, white radishes, lemon curd, prosciutto, chocolate, crackers, lobster pate, and bamboo shoots. Also, i think there we some other crazy Asian ingredients in there. And then we instructed Will and Carmen to create for us an appetizer in 30 minutes. The fate of their Dinner Club membership depended on it.

The final result? A prosciutto roll stuffed with lemon curd, served on a cracker with a balsamic vinegar on top. Carmen even admitted that she would have liked to reduce the vinegar into a thicker sauce, but was nervous about the time. We gave then credit as though they had made a reduction. The simple fact that they talked about it seemed fancy enough to grant then some foodie street cred.

The appetizer was interesting, and watching them squirm nervously at the hazing was even more interesting. Membership status solidified. Now we wait anxiously for their first real hosting gig, to find out what kind of recipes and cooking skill they bring to Dinner Club.

Do you recognize these melons?

I know, I know, these are not really melons, but squash. But I couldn't resist the titillating play on words. Call me immature. Or call me humorous. But whatever you call me, please help me figure out what these veggies are!

Squash, melon, or otherwise, I am also curious how to cook these veggies. They arrived in our CSA drop over the past few weeks. Our friends John and Lauren also received such a vegetable, and claim it is filled with a white flesh much like zucchini. But I have researched round zucchinis, and find these to be more oblong than they are supposed to be. Perhaps they are something else? And if indeed they are a round zucchini, then what is the best way to prepare them. I am at a loss.

Part of me does indeed hope they are a round zucchini, as my feminist side is excited to have a squash vegetable that more appropriately represents a female than a male. After all, the traditional summer zucchini, for better or worse, is rather phallic. I think it is rather nice to have a bosom-inspired squash for once. Then again, if I keep these jokes up folks may just lose their appetite. Or gain it. Who knows?

p.s. Do you like my new blouse? I found it for $8 at San Antonio's new Buffalo Exchange. I never thought a tie-neck blouse was my style, but it turns out sometimes I am wrong. I am loving this one.

These are a few of my favorite things: Dryer sheets and Vera Linens

If I were to be cast in the role of Maria in The Sound of Music, and I were asked to sing "My Favorite Things" you had better believe that instead of singing about schnitzel with noodles, I would be singing about dryer sheets and Vera Neumann linens. They are two of my very favorite things (along with girls in white dresses, but I can forgo the blue satin sashes in place of a killer strappy sandal). Perhaps this is why my weekend jaunt to the laundry mat to launder all of the linens for Sarah and Aaron's wedding was more of a treat than a chore.

In fact, it was without a doubt one of the more self indulgent weekend activities I have undertaken lately. Sam and I are lucky enough to have a washer dryer stack in our apartment, so I never get the chance to visit the laundry mat anymore these days. But that's not to say I don't enjoy it, and perhaps because it is a choice rather than a mandatory trip, it is a really pleasant errand for me (much like going to Target). I brought a jar of peanut M&Ms for a snack. I had a magazine and a book to browse. I people-watched to my heart's content, making up little stories about each of the laundry mat's clientele and imagining little vignettes of young laundry folders meeting and falling in lover over a jug of Cheer, just like in the movies. At one point I even ordered takeout thai food from the restaurant across the street, then ate pad thai with chopsticks while lounging in a teal plastic bucket seat, the comforting whirl of washers and dryers humming around me. And of course I huffed the scent of dryer sheets with relish. It was great.

The next task is to press and fold all 150 napkins, which is decidedly less exciting than laundering them in the Olmos Park Wash and Fold. Wish me luck, as this ironing falls in the category "When the dog bites, when the bee stings, when you have 150+ napkins to press and fold and you're feeling sad..." During the pressing, I will have to remember my favorite things, because then I won't feel so bad.

Marian Martin 9488

I have watched this pattern on eBay for ages, always bookmarking it, letting the auction pass, and watching it re-list and linger un-purchased. While no one else seems to like it, I am attracted to the blouse, which is odd because I am rarely attracted to 70's patterns. But, I have great hope for this one because of that unique shoulder yoke. One of my favorite patterns, perhaps my most successful sewing endeavor to date, is the 1930's Butterfly Sleeve Blouse. I have made it twice and have cut the fabric for a third. I attribute its great fit to the shoulder shaping, which uses a yoke to construct the shoulder and the fluttering sleeve all in one. The gathering over the bust and artistically fit shoulder seems to work for my figure and shape in a way that other patterns do not.

While this Marian Martin design is from about 40 years after my favorite blouse, it shares similar characteristics of 1930's fashion. The most characteristic fashion trend from the 1930s to the end of World War II was attention at the shoulder, including butterfly sleeves and banjo sleeves. Patterns were designed with broad, rounded shoulders cut in one piece with the yoke. Darts were replaced by soft gathers. This pattern fits the 1930's bill.

I might try it out in a 70's style dot, not polka dot, but more graphic.Grey and white is striking me at the moment, like this Amy Butler design. Or it might also be calling me in a Liberty floral, something small and colorful, like the Claire-Aude, Poppy & Daisy, or Lou Lou Isabelle A. Heck, maybe I could go all hipster on this and do a light weight, feminine plaid. I wonder how the pattern lines would match up? I bet the mismatch at the seams would make it interesting.

I might even try out the skirt, perhaps in a cotton chambray or light denim for summer, or even a colorful corduroy for the winter. I have not been having much luck in the actual construction of vintage patterns lately, but heck, I am pleased that at least my imagination and desire to sew continues to thrive. Marian Martin, here I come!

We all scream for ice cream.

Is it hot where you are? It is hot, very hot, in San Antonio. So the best solution is ice cream. We actually ate the ice cream pictured at a lovely little scoop shop in Denver called Bonnie Brae Ice Cream. They make their own waffle cones there, so it smells really good. They also have Sam's favorite flavor, butter brickle. For some reason, it seems that the only place to get butter brickle is in Colorado. They just don't have it in Texas. I had rum raisin, and it turns out the secret is soaking the raisins in rum.

It's really too hot right now to do much of anything except eat ice cream. And it is very hard to type a blog post with an ice cream cone in hand. So I will leave you today with some images of chilly treats and a mandate that you get a cone this weekend. Let me know what flavor you have, and enjoy.

4875 Tissue Fitting and Muslin: Part II

So let me lay it out there for you fine readers. In June I spent $80+ working with a "fit specialist" on this pattern. I spent an entire morning trying on tissue paper pattern, making additions here, tucking out subtractions there, and when I left I was assured this pattern had the changes necessary to fit. You can see images and construction details here. But somehow in fabric that pattern is now vastly too large. So what gives?

I know, I know. The fitting process is not a magic trick. Tweaks and adjustments continue with the fabric muslin and into the final garment, so I can't be too hard on the imperfections of my first draft. But then again, look on. This fabric version is so far from functional. Essentially, I need to go back to the original bodice design and start again. And that doesn't seem like something I should have to do after I pay a trained professional to help me. Am I out of line in my frustration?

Please take a look and tell me what you think. If you open the images in a new window or tab you can see them larger. Share your insights and advice, and if you see fit issues that you know a solution to, by all means share.

This is the bodice. Notice how it hangs far, far away from my body? It reminds me of a tent-like mu-mu that I sometimes see older women wearing in the grocery store without bras. That is not the look I am going for. On a positive note, isn't my sheet fabric pretty? I like the flowers.

Here's a profile. You can see how much excess is across the entire front, even when the side seem stays where it should.
Yeah, a lot of bust room. I do believe it is way too much.
This is the bodice if I manually gather up all of the excess at the side seams. This is closer to the look I want to achieve. It should be fitted, but not like a sausage casing. In other positive thinking, have you noticed by awesome belt buckle? I got it at the Renegade Craft Fair in Austin earlier this summer and it is one-of-a-kind made of a cross-processed photograph. I love it.
Here is the skirt with the addition of a center front panel (see here for description of alteration used to achieve this). It's weird when the skirt is so big it makes me look skinny in comparison. I am not used to that.
From the side.
Here is the back (with the front gathered to help it fit as it should), which went unchanged. I think the original back fits well.
Here is the front with a manual gather. This gather pulls up nearly the entirety of the center panel we added for width, meaning I am almost back to the original pattern. What gives?
And a profile with the center front panel gathered out.
The moral of the story is that I am sure I wasted my time and money on this tissue fitting. I am not sure I will find the sewing help I need in my fair city of San Antonio. Maybe in New York, maybe in L.A., maybe in Portland where the sewing scene is thriving...? Heck, maybe in the small towns of the Midwest where women have been sewing for decades and have knowledge that comes with practice. But I feel like I am slowly exhausting my resources and my funds and my sanity one by one here in San Antonio.

I want so much to sew attractive clothing. I am not asking to sew something that makes me look like a supermodel, but I am asking for something that fits comparably, if not better, than ready to where. Is that possible? Will the fates give me success someday?